Krujë: Searching for Skanderbeg

“Shkodër! Shkodër! Shkodër!” The row of drivers yelled out their destinations in staccato bursts, eyeing us hopefully as we walked hesitantly towards where their minibuses were »

Welcome to Tirana

It’s probably fair to say that most people arrive in Tirana with low expectations. Dismissed by many guidebooks as dusty and dilapidated, with little in »