The Macedonian city of Ohrid sits on the lake of the same name, a vast expanse of impossibly blue water that straddles the mountainous border with Albania [http://not-here.ghost.io/tag/albania/]. I was immediately struck by the seaside feel of the place, a little unexpected given that Macedonia

Our driver, a surly and uncommunicative brute of a man, lit another cigarette, cradling his mobile phone between ear and shoulder as he swung out into the path of the oncoming traffic. The engine growled and strained as he accelerated past the car in front, before ducking back into the