The Pucará of Tilcara, a hilltop fortress built by the Omaguaca people and later seized by the Incas, is crowned by a rather ugly monument to the archaeologists who rediscovered it in 1908. The monument is a flat-topped pyramid, a structure reminiscent of Mayan constructions in Central America, but which

Arriving in Salta, in the mountainous north west of Argentina, felt like a watershed moment in our trip. Up until now we'd mostly been travelling through places that felt culturally and architecturally European, but Salta was like a bridge between this world and the Andean countries that lay

"Wow look at those storm drains, they must get a lot of rain here!" On reflection, it was probably one of the sillier things that I've said on this trip. We'd just arrived in Mendoza, the city at the heart of Argentina's

As we travel around South America, we are gradually coming to appreciate the vastness of this continent. The bus journey from Buenos Aires to Córdoba was our longest so far, 11 hours through a monotonous landscape of pancake-flat farmland and pampas grass. It was only as we approached the outskirts

On this trip it seems like we keep arriving in countries in the midst of a crisis. The night before we were due to catch the ferry from Uruguay [https://www.nothere.co.uk/colonia-del-sacramento-montevideo/] to Buenos Aires, we found out that a general strike was taking place in Argentina